Our Foray into Antarctica

Antarctica is the coldest place on Earth, the driest continent and is where the highest sustained wind speed was ever recorded. Being the world’s largest ice mass, it holds 90% of the world’s ice! While on the surface it looks like a dreary, winter wasteland, the waters around the continent are actually the most nutrient-rich on the planet. This is where whales come to feed, penguins and many seabirds come to breed, and where plankton is produced. This plankton in turn sustains marine life all over.

I quickly realised that a trip to Antarctica is about letting go. The only guarantee on an expedition cruise is that Mother Nature will throw you surprises along the way. “Supposed to” applies frequently to excursions in Antarctica because all activities here are weather and sea conditions. We were supposed to go kayaking one afternoon at Andvord Bay. At first glance when we arrived after lunch, there was a lot of sea ice but the programme was going ahead anyway as the weather was calm. Within 30 minutes, the fog started to roll in and the wind gusts picked up. Change of plans; we managed to sneak a short nap in before going zodiac cruising instead.

We were booked on a Fly-Cruise, which meant flying on a charter flight from Punta Arenas in Chile onto King George Island in the South Shetland Archipelago to board our ship. But as life would have it, a very icy runway resulted in us having to cross the Drake Passage by ship instead. After more than two days of sailing, we finally reached land in the South Shetlands and made our first landing on Antarctic Peninsula when we set foot at Portal Point. We were told that we could technically reach the South Pole on skis after 110 days without having to cross any body of water. In the comfort of my waterproof and highly insulated parka, it blows my mind how early explorers like Shackleton chose to embark on the arduous journey to be the first to cross the continent.

While some found the crossing harrowing at times, it felt like a rite of passage to the White Continent. This early in the season (end October), the bays are still filled with sea ice but life is abundant. The penguins have already arrived from warmer waters to feed and prepare for the busy breeding season ahead, and we have spotted humpback whales at Paradise Bay.

Photos don’t do a lot of the places we visit justice, and even more so in Antarctica - the land of superlatives. In addition to being the coldest and driest place on Earth, the mountains are higher than expected, the contrast of the white ice against the backdrop of the dark seas starker.

Kayaking amongst the sea ice was by far our favourite activity. Being able to experience the waters of Antarctica at sea level, and being exposed to the forces of mother nature, was at the same time raw as it was awe-inspiring. I would highly recommend doing this at least once during your cruise! The expedition team provides all the necessary gear like dry suits, booties and poggies to keep you as waterproof as possible.

You can visit the White Continent from the end of October to around mid-March. No two voyages are alike, as weather and sea conditions are constantly changing. When to visit would be determined largely by what interests you, such as animal behaviour, landscapes, how isolated you want to feel. The later in the season, the more ships operate in these waters. You can expect the temperature to range from -3C to 3C on average. But if there are strong wind gusts, you can expect it to feel a lot colder! You might also very “hot” days when the sun is blazing and there is no wind, with temperatures going up to 15C.

If going to Antarctica is on your bucket list and you don’t know where to start, get in touch with our expert travel designers! Pudu Puda Travel is a certified Silversea Expeditions Specialist. We also work with other polar region cruises, and we would be more than happy to walk you through the differences in the ships and itineraries which operate in Antarctica. We can also share the pros and cons of departing from Chile vs. Argentina, whether a fly-cruise or sailing across the Drake Passage is suitable for your travel style, what to expect on board an expedition cruise, as well as any other questions you might have about travelling to the White Continent. You can reach us at hello@pudupuda.com.

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